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2002 Ram 1500....after rebuild....getn little black smoke frm exhaust

  
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2002 Ram 1500....after rebuild....getn little black smoke frm exhaust

 
cbisme72 cbisme72
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 02/12
Posted: 02/13/12
05:50 PM

I have a 2002 ram 1500 with 5.9 engine...rebuilt short block and have been driving for 2-3 months now....has plenty of power, no engine noise, but under load starting to get slight black smoke from exhaust....I did not rebuild heads...but did change tappets....what do ya think?  

Hemi4Lifer Hemi4Lifer
New User | Posts: 2 | Joined: 02/12
Posted: 02/14/12
01:20 PM

If this happens ONLY under a load, it means your motor is working harder than normal. Which probably means your fuel/air ratio is too rich. Did it always smoke under a load? If not, then there could be other factors like compression rings could be wore out.  

cbisme72 cbisme72
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 02/12
Posted: 02/14/12
07:58 PM

Im not sure if it did before i rebuilt it, i bought it with a knock in motor and immediately tore it down to rebuild. We completely rebuilt the short block, new pistons and rods,rings , crank, had block reworked....Motor is strong and runs great otherwise....just dont feel confident with it yet, is there a way to check air/fuel ratio? or does it really matter?  

cbisme72 cbisme72
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 02/12
Posted: 02/14/12
07:59 PM

Thanks for the advise! This is my first Dodge....im still a ford fan by far, but it is fun to drive....  

waynep7122 waynep7122
New User | Posts: 6 | Joined: 12/10
Posted: 02/14/12
09:33 PM

a few things from the side..   you don't see a lot of posts from me.. but i have been fixing cars for 30 years..

your truck is an OBD2 model..     with the engine off..    flip the key on and off 4 times .. with the last time stop in the ON position.. without starting or cranking the engine....   any codes that are stored will show up in the odometer display..


knowing the codes will take you to a specific page in the repair manual..    DO not just change the part that is described .. the codes describe the circuit..  

i would like you to check the fuel pressure with a fuel injection pressure tester... to verify the fuel pressure regulator did not fail.. sometime in the early 2000's.. dodge and other manufactures went to a non return fuel rail..  with a pressure regulator back near the tank..   or sometimes.. they very the speed of the pump to vary the pressure and needs of the engine..


if you had an OBD2 scan tool .. like the harbor freight 98614..   you can look at the live data stream with the engine running.. to see if the short term and long term fuel trim is within 5%  plus or minus of 0..

the 98614 will down load live data stream you have recorded to your pc so you can post it here .. this will give me and others a chance to examine it to see if there are any visible problems where something is not quite right..


under heavy loads.. or hard acceleration..   the system drops out of closed loop and reverts to open loop fuel control..

under closed loop.. the system is fine tuned by looking at the oxygen sensor readings...

under open loop.. the system reverts to HARD programmed fuel control numbers..

if one of the sensors is off..  it may not be off far enough to set a code... and can cause the system in open loop to inject too much fuel..

if you have a loose ground wire.. or one thats not been reattached . or has broken.. you will get problems like this..

as the ground side in these fuel injected motors is HALF the circuit..  

would a table lamp work.. if you only plugged in half the connector..     how about if one of the wires was loose.. you might get a flickering bulb.. but it would not be right..   computers are DIGITAL..    0 or 1...   off or on...   loose wires are not programmed in.. it will effect your fuel control..

a quick test..

take your digital volt meter.. set it to 20 volts DC...
start the engine.. and turn on the headlights..

1...   measure from the positive battery post to the negative battery post..   14.1 to 14.8 volts DC is expected..

2.    measure from the Negative battery post to the engine ...   0.04 volts DC is expected..

3.   measure from the Negative battery post to the body...    0.02 volts DC is expected..

4...  measure from the engine block to the body...          0.02 volts DC is expected..

if you get 0.00 volts on 2, 3, 4....   change the meter to 2 volts DC and retest 2, 3, 4 post results by number..  

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